Speaker Cabinet Texture Coating

Foam Pro Specialty Paint Rollers for Textured Finishes

For Speaker Cabinet Interiors (MDF or Plywood)

Acoust-X is a heavy bodied, LOW DENSITY, water based coating formulated with hollow ceramic microspheres, sound absorbing fillers and high adhesion resins.

Acoust-X is for use on the interior surfaces of speaker cabinets to reduce unwanted sound distortion. The combination of a high loading of the LOW DENSITY Ceramic Microspheres with their vacuum centers and the absorbent pigment fillers reduces sound transmission and reflection by up to 30%. Acoust-X helps reduce “Echo”.

This product is an easy to apply surface coating and an inexpensive solution for reducing sound transmission. Acoust-X is the ideal coating for inside speaker cabinets and can be rolled on, brushed on or sprayed with a hopper gun sprayer.


  • Excellent sound dampening
  • Incredible Adhesion to wood surfaces
  • Fast drying
  • Very Flexible
  • Won’t crack or peelC

  • Environmentally friendly

  • Soap and Water Cleanup
  • Light Gray but can be painted over
  • Non toxic
  • Application: Brush, Roller or Hopper Gun

  • All substrates must be clean and dry with no oils, silicones, waxes or other contaminants. Sand surfaces before application and remove all sanding residue. Bare wood surfaces need not be primed; however a base coat of DuraTex HB can be applied as its own primer.

    Application Instructions:

    Substrate must be clean and dry before you apply Acoust-X For best results apply in two moderately thick layers and allow to dry between coats. A stippled surface is more sound dampening than a smooth surface, so don’t worry about trying to smooth the coating out too much.

    Brush Application:

    Brush on a heavy coat at least 3 times heavier than typical paint and allow to dry. Dabbing in the wet material helps create a rougher, more efficient layer. Apply second coat if necessary after first coat has dried.

    Roller Application:

    Use a 3/4" nap and up to a 1-1/4" nap to create a thick, rough layer. Apply second coat if necessary after first coat has dried.

    Hopper Gun: Use a large orifice and allow the Acoust-X to spatter the inside of the cabinet. Do not try to make the coating smooth, it works best with a rougher finish.


    To store containers that have been previously opened, spray a fine mist of water onto the coating surface in the container before resealing the lid. This raises humidity levels in the container and can help prevent the product drying or skinning over in the container.


    Approximately 50 to 75 sq feet per (At 50 square feet per gallon, the yield will be 23 dry mils of soft, flexible, sound absorbing coating)

    The DuraTex Coatings are quite complex formulations that require more diligence in application than do typical wall paints. In order to achieve the hardness and durability in the finished product, DuraTex contains some very strong additives to knit the film to make it tough, weather resistant and beautiful.

    Temperature and Humidity levels at the time of application play a large part in the success or failure of the application. Here’s why…


    As a latex product, DuraTex contains water. It is imperative that the water evaporate out of the product within a certain time frame in order for the remaining solvents in the product to be able to begin the curing process. First the product has to dry, then it begins to cure and with a little time or heat, the curing is complete.

    The product cures as the small amount of slow evaporating solvents in the coating knit the film together after the water evaporates BUT, before the solvents evaporate. Film formation problems can happen when the water portion of DuraTex evaporates too slowly while the slow evaporating solvents are also leaving the film. When the water portion slowly evaporates, there are no solvents left to knit the film. This is what happens when DuraTex is applied in very high Relative Humidity conditions. DuraTex should not be applied when the R.H. is above 70% as this means it will take a long time for the DuraTex to dry because the surrounding air is already concentrated with more than 70% of the water vapor it can hold and it can’t hold much more. A slow drying means that the film may not form correctly as there will be too low a concentration of remaining solvents to make the film tough and durable. In extreme cases, cracking, checking, a rubbery feel and lack of adhesion will result.

    Make sure that the Relative Humidity is below 70% for best results.


    When DuraTex is applied there is a surface cooling effect that happens as the water begins to evaporate. You may find that what was a 60º surface is now a 55º or even 50º surface depending on how much of a breeze is blowing from fans, etc. At temperatures below 55º, the coating will NOT cure properly. It’s similar with epoxy products, cool temperatures become a problem for proper curing. DuraTex likes heat! It’s best when the surface temperature and the surrounding air temperatures are at 70º and higher. Even 95º is not a problem as long as the Relative Humidity is below 70% (see above).

    When the temperature is low, the film will not form correctly and the product (even though it is dried) will not adhere, will have cracks and checks and will not have any film integrity.


    Over 65ºF with Relative Humidity levels below 70% if temperatures are below 70º, do not use fans as this will cause the surface temperature to drop below the critical point and improper curing can result.


    Radio Shack sells an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer with Hygrometer for only $19.99 so you can always know what the temp and humidity levels are in your work area

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